In shocking contrast to Tibet’s austere topography, Nepal loomed before us like the emerald gardens of heaven, rich and alive with color, waterfalls dancing down hillsides, azure rivers cutting a swathe across the Himalayan ringed South Asian country. The outstretched arms of an impossibly verdant countryside beckoned us into its fold immediately upon arrival.
Nearly four years have passed since my expedition through Nepal (and the penning of that journal entry) but the recall remains vivid. From the giddy teenage boys with whom we shared the roof of a local bus which transported us from the Tibetan border into the heart of Kathmandu, the country’s capital; to Shiva, a young fatherless “untouchable” who befriended me in a remote Himalayan village one day. His illusory dream of becoming a doctor both saddened and touched me, his thirst for knowledge and a particularly charming assertiveness prompted me into action.
“Stay here and teach,” he implored. “My mother will feed you and you can live in my room.” His bedroom, an austere shoe-box tucked into a corner of the thatched roof dwelling in which he resided with at least ten others was all he could call his own. And he was generously willing to bequeath it to me. While I returned to my guest house in Pokhara that day, I did revisit the secluded mountain village several times more, enduring three rickety local busses that ribbon their way over rock-strewn dirt roads ascending to the summit of paradise.
As my time was limited, teaching was not an option, so I conceptualized what I thought would be a longer term solution to an immediate problem. Hence, the Namaste Cross Cultural Pen Pal Program was born in an effort to expose the kids to other cultures while helping them improve their English skills. Working with the marvelous students and the dedicated, albeit, understaffed and under-funded faculty at Sree Kalika Secondary School remains a most poignant memory in a life full of poignant memories. I still often think of Shiva in the hopes that he is thriving, although realistically he is probably still sitting outside his humble home on a school day caretaking his younger siblings, nieces and nephews while the adults are at market hawking their wares.
Nepal is a magical and emotional place -- so full of scenic beauty and spiritual devotion, yet plagued by insurmountable poverty, an antiquated caste system and political turbulence. Despite the restoration of parliament and the signing of a peace agreement between the new government and Maoist (Communist Party of Nepal) insurgents in November 2006, travel advisories continue to inhibit the prolific tourism once enjoyed by this South Asian nation. Though the Maoist leadership has publicly prohibited their cadres from engaging in all human rights abuses, media reports indicate that incidents of extortion, abductions, assaults and murders persist. And while widespread protests have abated, the potential for demonstrations and disruptions remains high with strikes (“bandas”) still also periodically paralyzing the country. But recent travelers insist that by exercising reasonable caution and common sense – as one would in any developing or politically mercurial nation – a Nepali travel experience remains unrivaled.
Boasting eight of the world’s highest peaks, including the fabled Mt. Everest, Nepal’s vast scenic, historical and cultural offerings galvanize the imagination and fuel the soul. Known as the “abode of the gods,” the country is rife with Buddhist shrines and Hindu temples and has long attracted pilgrims and other spiritual seekers. More than 35 percent of the small nation’s landmass has been designated as natural sanctuaries with nine national parks and three wildlife reserves providing ample opportunity to commune with nature.
Next: Savoring the delights of Nepal
By Suzan Crane -- the Global Gypsy Girl
