Back to Lhasa briefly to secure permits and prepare for our arduous, yet elucidating six day journey, a route famously known as the Friendship Highway. After loading our gear into the 4-wheel drive, an international quartet of travelers, the driver and a guide piled into the vehicle just past dawn in the last week of October. We were cutting it close as many mountain passes would be impenetrable in a matter of weeks or perhaps days, depending on the weather. We were going high high up into the Himalayas, higher still to Mt. Everest base camp where we would spend a freezing night at a rudimentary, unheated monastery.

Day One: We visit Samye Monastery and continue on to Nagartse, at an elevation of 4,500 meters, where we encamped in a no-frills guest house. En route it begins to snow. Huge snowflake pellets obscure our vision and carpet the road. Day Two: we descend slightly to 3,950 and 3,900 meters respectively as we foray to Gyantze and then Shigatze, where we again bunk down in most basic accommodations. Day Three: Climbing back up to Sakya’s 4,280 meters and leveling off at 4,050 meters in Shegar, our pit stop for the night. Day Four: The HIGHlight!! Our arrival at Everest Base Camp – at 5,200 meters. Teeth-chattering cold, hot tea in a tent, several of our group opt to walk further up. A ferocious, powerful wind barely allowed me to remain erect, so I remained behind.

That evening, a small fire in Rongphu Monastery’s kitchen around which fifteen or so hardy travelers convened. Freezing but euphoric. We’re on Mt. Everest!!!! It took me nearly an hour to comfortably ensconce myself in my sleeping bag, shrouded as I was in layers of clothes, hats, and gloves, so it was an unwelcome shock when I realized that I had to go to the bathroom. Lying beneath the covers, I tried to will myself to sleep. But a persistent reminder that I had to GO would deny me the pleasure of slumber. Finally and begrudgingly, I extricated myself from the man-made womb and scurried outside to the elements where I was compelled to do my business. Sooooo cold. Frozen urine. Shocking. Soooo cold. Ran back to bed and remained there for better or worse until morning when it was still sooooo cold.

But we were at the base of Mt. Everest, the fabled mountain looming majestically ahead – a once in a lifetime experience! Regenerated by steaming coffee, we crammed back into our jeep and headed to Old Tingri, where we dropped off one of our posse. And now we were three as we continued down to Zhangmu (2,300 meters) the Tibetan town bordering Nepal. There we slept in the relative warmth of a hotel room, fueled by bad hotel restaurant food and invigorated by the journey we had just shared. Day Six: Walked across the Nepalese border, where the brown, white and blue of Tibet was replaced by the verdant lushness of its neighbor. Rode the roof of a local bus to Kathmandu where my next adventure awaited.

By Suzan Crane -- the Global Gypsy Girl