About three years earlier when visiting Portland it hit me .. Mt Hood in the distance and I knew I would be climbing that mountain. I did my research, who guides it, what to equipment to have, fitness level and a myriad of climbing related tips.



I needed a partner, my oldest son 'was in'. In late 2007 the plans started to gel. I was accumulating the quipment and researching the best times. Around February I pulled the triggerand signed up with a guide usiness ... Timberline Guides out of Bend Oregon. I chose the three day package which included two days of training, the second focusing on anchors, knots, and proper belaying.

Out first day was June 13th .. and yes it was a Friday. We learned basic snow travel techniques, There was alot more science to it than one might imagine. The next day, ropes, anchors, and more advanced techniques

Finally Sunday arrived ... barely because we met at Timberline Lodge at 12:30 am. They want you to climb when the mountain is frozen to reduce stone and icefall. We used a SnoCat to take us to the top of the ski lift area about 8200 feet. We put our crampons on, turned the headlamps on and headed up a team of four. You really didnt need the lamps though, the mountain was iluuminated by the snow... in the distance were the lights of Portland and above a starry sky.

We made great time - which was important because our guide was concerned over the number of people expected to climb that Sunday, Fathers day.



On the way up our guide said at the first rest 'if you are sweating shed a layer' good advice ... You were heated when you climbed but on resting in the 20 degree windswept slopes you felt cold immediately and wet cold is worse. On resting we would immedately bring out our heavy 'puffy' jacket. Our first obstacle occured at about 10,500 feet, just past the Hogsback. One of our team was getting altitude sick. We had to retreat about 400 feet to a safe bivvy spot the guides had. Our guide was in cell phone contact with 2 other groups somewhere lower on the mountain and the one other group that started the same time we did. Finally all that could be done was leave our teammate at the bivvy point and the three of us head on. By now our guide was very concerned, the delay had allowed many teams to pass us, including many that he said 'had no idea on what they were doing' having these above us was troubling him, so he took us up a different seldom used way. We made great time - even with the slopes getting steep (45 degrees). The snow on this mountain (neve) is almost like concrete ... its hard. You have to really kick to get a step edge. The last 20 meters are almost vertical, but there were steps to follow so actually it seemed less dangerous than the rest.

Anyway in a few minutes we summitted. There were only two others that had made it before us .. we crossed a small ridge and joined them on the highest point and took a break. The sun was just coming up - the view was perfect. We had a breakfast break, took our pictures, enjoyed the view.



Now we had to leave and voila - obstacle 2. All the ways up were clogged with teams coming up. Our guide again chose to have us leave by a riskier way so we had a chance to use the anchors and rope lessons we learned the day before. We went down 200 feet and dug into the side. Our guide Chris came down last. After he came down another team decided to useour path as well and we learned why you have helmets. I was pelted with a pretty constant barrage. Chris said ' we gotta get clear fast' so the three of use did a rapid traverse about 200 meters straight across. From there we anchored down another 200 feet and from there it was straight forward.



We unroped at 10,200 and gathered our waiting member.



The way down is the full mountain distance - no ride from the Snocat. I did have one personal problem, the muscles you 'brake' with are far different My legs were like rubber, I had to go sideways, straightdown was not an option. I even had to walk backwards at one point until the slope allowed me to use the poles to brake with.All told it was a 10 hour round trip ... soon it was the bar, one large beer, three coffees and five glasses of water .. I can't wait for the next time!